What makes one chef's knife different from another? In this post we go through the parts of a knife and what each choice changes for you. We also show what we chose for our two ranges, Original and TwinSteel. It should help you pick a knife that suits the way you cook.
Part 1
Blade profile
The first thing that sets knives apart is their shape. A blade can be rounder or flatter. A rounder edge is said to have more belly. More belly makes it easier to rock the knife. A flatter edge suits straight up-and-down chopping. Our guide to choosing a knife shows which shape does what.
Blade height is a choice too. A taller blade gives your knuckles more room above the board. The downside: it is heavier, so it feels a little slower in fast work.
Some blades also get thinner from spine to edge across their height. This is rare. The bevel at the edge already gives you much of the benefit, and this shape is hard to make.
Part 2
Spine
The spine is the back of the blade. A thicker spine makes the knife stronger, but heavier. It is also more comfortable when you press down on it with your other hand.
Original: 2.0 mm
Thinner and lighter. A good fit if you like a nimble knife.
TwinSteel: 2.5 mm
Sturdier, and more comfortable to press on when you cut through something hard.
The spine can also change in thickness along its length. There are two types:
- Straight spine. Same thickness all the way. Simple, strong and durable.
- Distal taper. The spine gets thinner towards the tip. Handy for fine, fast work. The trade-offs: it costs more to make, and the thin tip breaks more easily if you drop the knife.
Part 3
Bolster
The bolster is the thick part where the blade meets the handle. A knife doesn't need one to be strong, but it can help with balance.
Some knives have a full bolster that runs all the way down to the heel. That gives you a tough spot for chopping small bones. We are not fans: it makes the knife very hard to sharpen along its full length.
Our Original knives have a half bolster. It helps the balance and makes a pinch grip comfortable, and you can still sharpen the whole edge yourself. Read more in our overview of sharpening options.
Part 4
Tang
The tang is the part of the blade that runs into the handle. There are two types:
- Full tang. Runs the full length of the handle and is nearly always visible. It adds weight to the handle and is stronger. That extra strength matters for hunting knives, not for kitchen work.
- Partial tang. Runs part way into the handle. Japanese knives are often made this way, without a bolster. It is plenty strong for the kitchen.
In the kitchen, full or partial tang mostly comes down to looks and how you like the balance.
Part 5
Handle
This is where you hold the knife, so it has to feel right. That is personal, so try a few if you can. A good handle gives you grip, also when it is wet or oily. And it has to last.
Original: wenge
A dark hardwood handle. Feels natural in the hand. Give it a little oil when the wood looks dull or dry. See our hardwood care guide.
TwinSteel: POM
A synthetic handle. It needs no oiling. Just wash it by hand with the blade.
For both: wash by hand, not in the dishwasher. Every BARE knife has a lifetime warranty on manufacturing defects.
Part 6
Edge
Both our ranges are sharpened at 15 degrees per side, the same on both sides (a 50/50 grind). That means the knife works for left and right hands, and you always know which angle to sharpen at.
Part 7
Looks
We are practical people, but we also like a knife that looks good. You tend to look after a tool you like, and keep it for longer. That is why we care about how our knives look.
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